If your home in Ventura or Santa Barbara county has only been mildly affected by the smoky environment caused by the Thomas Fire one option you may want to consider is a product from Sherwin-Williams.
Painting your concrete garage floor can bring a much needed face lift to your space, here are the steps needed for completing your next project. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rTU3sflz3VI
We recommend starting your project by aggressively sanding the floor using a floor sander that you can rent at most any rental yard or Home Depot.
- Use very coarse paper 36 or 50 grit and sand the floor completely.
- It is critically important to clean the floor thoroughly after sanding.
- Start by vacuuming the dust from the floor.
- Most manufacturers recommended using an acid wash.
- Next you'll want to patch any large holes using a patching compound recommended by the manufacturer. Smaller cracks can be filled simply by applying a generous amount of paint.
- Next you'll want to apply your first coat of paint (there will be two total)
- Cut-in (paint with a brush) around the edge of the space, this helps avoid hitting the edges with your roller.
- Roll the paint on evenly filling any small cracks with paint
A two coat process is highly recommended even if the manufacturer says you only need one coat. The second coat will help the floor last longer and give you better coverage. As an option you can purchase vinyl paint flecks that match your floor. In order to apply these follow these steps:
- Paint a small square of floor
- Shake on the flecks, be sure to apply them in small patches while the paint is wet.
- Leave yourself a little room between painted sections so that you can overlap the floor paint properly without picking up fleck in the paint.
Using at least one coat of clear finish is strongly recommended because it will help seal the paint flex and give your floor greater resilience.
A couple cautionary notes, floors tend to be subject to hydro-static pressure from under the slab. This sometimes leads to paint failure and no manufacturer will guarantee against that. Also, most all floor coatings today claim that they will resist hot tire marks, but we have found over the years that it can sometimes still be a problem.
Here's hoping your floor project comes out looking spectacular.
Your once beautiful deck has started to look a bit shabby so you have decided to restore it. This is a worthy project but it's going to take some elbow grease. Maxson painting is here to give you some tips that will help restore that faded deck back to it's former glory.
In general there are three types of deck coating; transparent, semi-transparent, and solid. The rule of thumb regarding stain is that the more opaque the material the longer it will last. In other words, transparent stain, having very little pigment, will last the shortest amount of time. While solid stains, with the highest amount of pigment, will last the longest. I do not recommend using paint on your deck there is too much moisture intrusion from the sides and the bottom. Once the moisture starts getting in the paint will start popping off, and we don't want that do we?
Be sure to mask any surfaces such as spas or doorframes that you don't want damaged. I use red vinyl tape as it resists moisture better than any other product available. Once the masking has been completed you will want to get the deck wet and then apply a deck stripper or deck cleaner to the entire surface. Go back to where you started and apply a bit more deck stripper. Scrub it with a stiff brush and repeat this process over the entire surface of the deck. Once you are done you will need to wash the deck off, you can use a hose or power washer. Next you will want to apply a deck brightener to bring the deck back to a natural wood color. Apply this product according to label instructions and then rinse thoroughly. Once this has been accomplished you will want to let the deck dry out before you take the next step. Once the deck is dry, sand the entire deck with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper. This step is needed to remove the furring that has occurred from the restoration process. Be sure to remove all the dust after your sanding, you don't want the dust in your finish do you?
Now at long last you're ready to start applying the stain. There are a lot of good deck stains out there; Super Deck, Flood, and the top line products from Lowes or Home Depot. Each of these performs about the same. Good luck and here's to a great looking deck and a summer of fun on it!
So you just got a great deal on a new home but the bad news is, the last people to live there were heavy smokers and the walls look as though they are dripping nicotine. Now what do you do? Well I am glad you asked because we have the answers that will get those walls looking like new. It is also helpful to note that this process will also work for damage from small fires. So let's get started.
The very first thing you're going to need to do is wash those walls thoroughly. Be sure to mask the electrical outlets as you'll be using a good deal of water and we don't want you to have a shocking experience. The walls will need to be washed at least twice with a big sponge and a product we recommend called Krud Kutter. This is a very strong product so be sure to use rubber gloves. Depending on how bad the smoke damage is you may want to mix it a little more strongly than it recommends but no more than a one to one solution. As we said wash the walls at least twice and then rinse them to be sure you've gotten all that nasty nicotine and cleaner off the walls.
Now you need to prime all of the surfaces in the home. We recommend you use BIN alcohol based primer. This has a very strong smell but it dries very quickly and that is key to locking down that nicotine smell. You may want to invest in a disposable respirator for the priming process. They are not that expensive and it will save you that nasty headache you get working around a strong smelling primer. Using water-based primer is not a great option. Even though they promise to block out the stains, the smell may not get locked in as well. Once you have primed everything one time let it dry thoroughly and repeat the process of priming. This ensures that smell and stains are locked down completely. This may not be necessary when using the alcohol based primer but it is critical if you have chosen to use the less smelly water-based primer. At this point you are ready to proceed like a normal paint job.
Some other things you will want to keep in mind that aren't necessarily related to the painting but will help you in this recovery from the smoke damage are…
- having the ductwork cleaned
- changing out all vents in bathrooms
- removing the carpet and
- replacing window coverings
Materials and Tools
Removing wallpaper can be a breeze or it can be a real challenge. The great news is that you never know until you are well into the project which of these experiences you're going to have. Okay that’s not such great news, but unfortunately, it is reality. Here are some tips to making the process a little more bearable and to ensure a long lasting, great looking finish.
The first step you are going to want to take is to protect the floor and other surfaces around the area. We recommend masking the floor and other items with plastic. Next, line the floor at the bottom of the wall where you are removing wallpaper with old towels or newspaper. This comes in handy later when applying the wallpaper remover or water to rinse the wall.
I would recommend buying a product called the Piranha because it is inexpensive and will make the whole job substantially easier. The Piranha perforates the wallpaper allowing the wallpaper remover solution to penetrate through the paper and begin softening the glue. Other companies make similar tools that can do this job.
Once the wallpaper has been adequately perforated you can apply a wallpaper remover of your choice. If you want to save a few dollars regular liquid dish soap also works pretty well. Apply the wallpaper removal solution generously using a squirt bottle or garden sprayer. If you are reluctant to do any spraying then purchase a large sponge and soak the walls that way. Remember to generously soak the surface. Let the solution sit for at least 15 minutes allowing it to work. Once it has had time to soak in I find it best to re-wet the surface at the point where you will begin the removal process. Re-wetting small areas as you work on removing the paper acts as a lubricant making the job easier and causes less damage to the wallboard.
Removing the wallpaper can be accomplished with special wallpaper removal tools or wide, stiff, putty knives. Take your time removing the paper. Every gouge in that wall is a gouge you will have to fix later. If the wallpaper is resisting your efforts and just plain refusing to come off then you may need to rent or buy a wallpaper steamer. These work well but they add cost to the project and can be messy. This tool is fairly straightforward, it has a tank with water that gets heated and a large square device that you rest on the wall to heat the glue to a point where the wallpaper can be easily scraped off.
Now that all the wallpaper has been removed go ahead and take a large sponge and a solution of that wallpaper stripper that we purchased earlier and wash those walls down as you want to get as much of that glue off as possible. I recommend sanding the wall to remove any debris left behind from the removal process.
The next step is to apply a full coat of stain blocking primer to the walls where the wallpaper has been removed. This is a very important step. The process seals in the remaining glue that has soaked into the wall. If you skip this process it is likely that a year down the line the finished paint will begin to crack as the glue seeps out.
Once the wallpaper is off, the walls are washed, sanded, and primed you can patch and texture the walls as needed. If you had to make some large patches or texture spots go ahead and seal those with the primer used earlier. Congratulations you are now ready to paint using one of those great zero VOC paints we recommended in our earlier blog. Good luck!
Material and Tools
Popcorn, Acoustic, Stucco, Cottage Cheese, whatever you may call it, removal of this type of ceiling finish is very popular. The temptation to remove this unsightly mess off your ceiling can be strong and you may want to jump right in. But before you start scraping it away there are a couple things you should know so that the project is done properly, looks good, and most importantly you stay safe.
The first thing you need to know is that homes built before 1980 could have asbestos in the acoustic. Asbestos is a fibrous material that was used to help protect against fire. It has since been linked with multiple lung disorders. Testing for the substance is an important first step. Homes built after 1980 rarely have asbestos in the acoustic ceilings but it may be prudent to test anyway. It is important to take responsibility for testing before you proceed with your project. If your test is positive you will need to contact a local asbestos removal contractor. Be sure to sit down before you get the estimate as this can be a very pricy endeavor. In lieu of removing the asbestos-filled acoustic, the acoustic can be painted using specially designed light weight acoustic paints. These products perform best when you spray them on. Often the directions say you can roll them, I would avoid that if at all possible as it may damage the ceiling and disturb the asbestos.
Now you are ready to start. Your first step is to fully mask the floor.
- Cover the floor with plastic
- Lay a second sheet of plastic over the first. (Trust me you will like this step)
- Lay some plastic outside the door of the room where you are doing the removal
- Place an old towel on top of that to help contain the acoustic being removed
Next you will want to wet the ceiling to minimize the amount of dust from the removal process. You can use a garden sprayer or carefully use a hose to do that. Make sure you do not over saturate the acoustic as you do not want the drywall underneath to become too wet. Once the ceiling has been dampened you can use a wide drywall knife, 8’’ or 12’’ knives work well, to carefully remove the wet acoustic. I say carefully because the more nicks and scrapes you inflict on the drywall the more you will have to fix later. Once all the acoustic has been removed roll up that second piece of plastic and haul it to the trash can. Let the ceiling dry overnight. Setting up a fan to keep the air moving is a good idea. The next day sand the ceiling to get any residual acoustic off the surface. Use 100 grit drywall sandpaper or drywall sanding grids for this step.
Next you should skim coat (apply a smooth layer of drywall mud on) the whole ceiling. This can be done by using a 9’’ roller, drywall mud and the widest drywall knife you can handle. Ideally you will have two people for this. The process goes like this…
- Thin the mud just enough to get it to roll out.
- One person rolls out the mud and the second person smooth’s it out with the drywall knife.
- Excess mud from each pass can be put in a drywall pan.
- Turn the fans back on and wait until the mud is fully dry.
- Once it is all good and dry sand the mud again and repeats the process.
Hopefully after letting the second coat dry and sanding it you will have a surface that can be textured using a texture machine or painted as it is depending on the finish you would like to have. Flat paint works best on ceilings as it shows less flaws in the finish. You will also want to caulk the corners in between paint coats to give yourself nice clean corners.
Materials and Tools
- Drywall knives
- Safety glasses
- Hose or Hudson sprayer
- Tape (red vinyl works well when using water)
- Drywall mud
- Sanding pole
- Drywall sandpaper or sanding screens
- Flat paint
- Dust masks
- An old towel
- Texture machine
- Mud pan
Examples of materials you may need
Asbestos Test kit
Dryfall Acoustic paint
Painting a home can be a large project to tackle. Maxson Painting is here to help, today we are going to cover the crucial first step of any painting project, preparation. The type and amount of preparation needed before beginning your exterior paint job varies according to architecture and the condition of the substrata (the surface that you will be covering). That said, here are some basic first steps to a great exterior painting project.
- First pull back any dirt or plants from the base of the house to allow 2 to 3 inches for painting below ground level.
- Next identify any areas of mildew and treat them with a one to one solution of household bleach and water. If there is extensive mildew you may want to use a garden sprayer to apply the solution. If you choose this route be sure to keep surrounding hardscape and plants wet as a way to avoid damaging them.
- You will want to pressure wash the exterior of the house. A high-pressure nozzle on your hose could be used but I would strongly recommend renting a pressure washer from your local Home Depot or Lowe's. This will ensure you get a good quality washing before you start painting.
- Use a paint scraper, wire brush, or power sander to remove any loose and failing paint. Ensuring that all loose and failing material is removed from the substrata is critical before moving on in the project.
- Apply a coat of primer to all raw wood. Priming raw wood is very important even with paints that claim to be paint and primer in one. It is best to use a product designed for priming specifically as opposed to a paint that's trying to do the job of both the paint and primer.
- Next identify any cracks and uneven areas in the substrata and address those using elastomeric caulking and flexible patching products such as Flexall. Using flexible products is a little more difficult when patching because it shrinks and can take more than one coat. However, traditional spackle is very hard when it dries and tends to fail sooner than the flexible products.
- Once you have patched all the uneven areas and cracks you will need to re-sand them and prime them to ensure adhesion of top coats.
Now you're ready to begin applying your finish coats of paint. In our next blog we will discuss how to select the right paints for every surface on your exterior painting project and provide tips on applying them.
Materials and tools
- Garden Sprayer
- Pressure washer (recommended)
- Paint Scraper, Wire Brush, or Power Sander
- Primer (avoid paint+primer)
- Elastomeric Caulking
- Flexible Patching (i.e. Flexall, DAP)
- Putty Knife
- Sand Paper